The Wilderness (northwest Montana) Kalispell
Glacier National Park
Whitefish – Flathead Lake – Bigfork
Northwest Montana is mostly a vast wilderness region. Mountains and forests dominate the landscape in The Wilderness. Much of the land owes its character to massive glaciers which covered the area during the ice age of several thousand years ago. When the ice retreated, it left behind sculptured mountain peaks and broad valleys.
Visitors who want to enjoy nature and avoid touristy destinations visit Kootenai National Forest in far northwest Montana. Kootenai National Forest is a largely uninhabited mountainous area with vast forests and wild rivers. The Yaak Valley and Yaak River are a path through the mountains. Wildlife abound in the Yaak. Access is by Montana Highway 508, a road that follows the Yaak River as it meanders through Yaak Valley. To get a flavor of this area before you go, watch the History Channel and view the “Mountain Men” series, a segment of which features Tom Oar, a local who has lived and survived in the Yaak for over 35 years. The Yaak is a cool place.
Lake Koocanusa is another treasure in northwest Montana. This huge lake was created by a dam built on the Kootenai River. Montana State Highway 37 connects Libby with Eureka and runs along the east side of Lake Koocanusa. Many recreational opportunities await tourists who want to experience wilderness areas. Local promoters say this area is “Glacier Park without the crowds.” Well, not by any stretch Glacier Park, but still attractive. Go and check out everything that Kootenai National Forest and local communities have to offer.
More wilderness is located east of Montana State Highway 83. This area extends over 80 miles south from Glacier National Park and is divided into three parts: Great Bear Wilderness, Bob Marshall Wilderness, and Scapegoat Wilderness. Combined this area is larger than Delaware and very remote. Wilderness areas can be hard to navigate. If you go, a local guide service may help you have a more enjoyable experience.
Montana is well know for its natural wonders, but few people have heard of the Chinese Wall in the Bob Marshall Wilderness. The Chinese Wall is as spectacular as any of the rest. The wall is a massive limestone escarpment over twelve miles in length with an abrupt vertical rise of more than 1,000 feet. Access is by hiking on trails deep into the wilderness. Some hikers start their journey from an area 30 miles west of Augusta. If you go, plan very carefully days if not weeks in advance. You’ll hike for several miles in rugged mountainous terrain just one way before getting a first glimpse of the wall and then take another long hike back to the trailhead. This is a journey for only experienced and strong hikers.
Grizzly bears live in northwest Montana. E. W. Nelson, in his book on the Wild Animals of North America, wrote that with the arrival of white men grizzlies became very shy and even the slightest unusual noise would cause a grizzly bear to run away. Nelson warned, however, a grizzly bear should still be considered dangerous.
Montana Fish, Wildlife, and Parks estimates that 1,250 grizzlies prowl various wild areas in western Montana. As recent as 2001, a conservation organization paid Montana ranchers $16,000 for the lose of 25 cows and calves, 11 sheep and lambs, and several fowl caused by hungry grizzly bears.
Glacier National Park
Glacier National Park is located near Kalispell. The park is famous for spectacular scenery. Viewing high mountains, glaciers, alpine meadows, and pristine lakes, fed by melting snows, is an experience to last a lifetime.
Glacier National Park is home to a great diversity of plants and wildlife. During summer, meadows are filled with wildflowers. Indian Paintbrush is a favorite of young and old alike. Bears, mountain lions, bighorn sheep, mountain goats, and elk live in Glacier.
Inside the park, you’ll travel on Going-to-the-Sun Road. Going-to-the-Sun Road can be a “white-knuckle drive for visitors,” says T. Kenworthy, in a recent story in USA Today.
Lake McDonald and Saint Mary Lake add to the beauty of the landscape and mountains. Lake McDonald is on the west side of the Park and Saint Mary Lake is on the east side along Going-to-the-Sun Road. Saint Mary Lake is more than 300 feet deep and is populated by several species of trout. It is visually spectacular, a scenic wonder beyond description.
According to the NPS, more than half of visitors to Glacier go hiking. The park offers over 700 miles of hiking trails. Hiking is a great way to take in the park’s spectacular scenery. Many well-developed trails guide your way.
If you’d like a convenient and comfortable way to travel inside Glacier National Park, use the services of Glacier Sun Tours. This is a guided bus tour.
Lodging inside Glacier National Park is limited, so early booking may be the only chance to stay in Glacier. Glacier National Park Lodges handles reservations. Three great choices:
- Lake McDonald Lodge
- Many Glacier Hotel
- Village Inn at Apgar
Outdoors fun such as hiking, rafting, fishing, and biking in and around Glacier National Park is a big attraction. Contact Glacier Guides and Montana Raft in West Glacier, Montana.
Check out Glacier National Park for more information.
Kalispell (pop. 22,761) is the largest town in the Flathead Valley. The weather in Kalispell is a little on the cool side, because of the city’s northerly latitude and an elevation of 2,965 feet. During the summer, average minimum temperatures are in the 45 to 48 degree range. Still, average maximum temperatures, during the same period, are very comfortable, in the 72 to 84 degree range.
Montana Raceway Park is a big attraction during the summer in Kalispell. The track is one quarter mile oval inside and 3/8 miles outside. Racing fans are entertained by racers driving hobby stocks, bombers, cruisers, and Formula 1/Indy cars and more. All very entertaining for the entire family, say the track’s owners.
Summer fairs are for family fun in Montana. Kalispell hosts the Northwest Montana Fair and Rodeo. Concerts, rodeo, carnival rides, and thousands of hand-crafted exhibits make this a wonderful event for all. In 2019, this event runs August 14-18.
Horseback riding is a favorite activity for many folks. Admire the horses and get on the trail at Lonesome Dove Guest Ranch (406) 756-3056 near Kalispell.
Tourists find many fine restaurants in Kalispell. The Tupelo Grille serves seafood,steaks, pasta, and more, plus offers a great wine list. Vivienne’s Fifth Street Cafe is very popular. The cafe serves breakfast and lunch. The sandwiches and daily specials are extra good. Rocco’s Restaurant, located east of Kalispell on U.S. Highway 2, is another favorite dining spot. ScottiBelli’s Ristorante Italiano in downtown Kalispell is for diners who like great Italian cuisine.
|Kaslispell has excellent lodging|
|Red Lion Hotel||(406) 751-5050|
|Kalispell Grand Hotel||(406) 755-8100|
|Hampton Inn||(406) 755-7900|
Top Ethnic Cuisine:
- Scottibelli’s (Italian)
- Casa Mexico
- Chinatown Restaurant
- Blue Samurai Sushi Bar & Grill (Japanese)
- Edelweiss Bistro (German, in Missoula, Montana)
On your arrival in Kalispell, check out the Kalispell Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center at 15 Depot Park for more information about the region around Kalispell.
Whitefish (pop. 7,279) is the Aspen of the North. Located a few miles from the west entrance to Glacier National Park, Whitefish is a year-round playground. Whitefish Mountain Resort offers some of the finest skiing in North America. During summer months, many visitors flock to Whitefish to play on beautiful Whitefish Lake. Water craft rentals, such as canoes, boats, and pontoons, are available for an outing on the lake.
The Whitefish Arts Festival is a premier event in northwest Montana. Many art forms are represented including, paintings, sculpture, pottery, jewelry, and more. There is always a variety of Montana style art available. Artists from across the country come to Whitefish to showcase their high-quality arts and crafts. In 2019, this event runs July 5-7.
In early fall, Whitefish folks and everyone else who likes a grand party, get revved up for The Great Northwest Oktoberfest. Music, food, dancing, events, and more, so much fun for the entire family.
Oktoberfest is a great place to make new friends, too. If you see someone’s granny or another pretty one of interest, just walk over and introduce yourself. After you get comfortable with one another, ask if it’s okay to show off your German language skill. Then say, “Ich liebe dich” (ech lee-beh dech). Of course, as you speak, have a big smile on your face, so as not to leave a serious impression. A soft approach with a twist of lightheartedness is always best as a first step.
In 2019, Great Northwest Oktoberfest in Whitefish runs September 26-28 and again October 3-5.
Craft breweries are numerous in Montana. When in Whitefish go to Great Northern Brewery. Food served too. This place is very nice and you can take in a great view of the ski slopes while you dine.
Horseback riding is a chance to feel like a real cowboy. In the Whitefish area, the Bar W Guest Ranch (406-863-9099) offers one-half hour, two-hour, and half-day trail rides.
Others find enjoyment on Whitefish’s fabulous 36-hole golf course. All of this in an outdoors of uncommon natural beauty. Shopping and partying are very popular too.
An old man, living in Dixie, recently said “in Whitefish, Montana half the town is bars, the other half western stores.” And “the bars have good food and splendid hospitality.”
After a fun-filled day in Whitefish, travelers find accommodations at the Firebrand Hotel (406) 863-4055. Buffalo Cafe (Est. 1979) serves breakfast until 2:30 pm.
Columbia Falls (pop. 5,241) is a gateway city to Glacier National Park, and is located about 17 miles west of Glacier’s west entrance on U.S. Highway 2. The Columbia Falls Chamber of Commerce offers a nice online map of the area. Columbia Falls is a year-round hot spot for outdoor recreation. Meadow Lake Resort offers lodging and a championship 18 hole golf course. Big Sky Waterslide Park and numerous groomed snowmobile trails are fun for all. Flathead River (with North fork, Middle Fork and South Fork, designated as “Wild & Scenic Rivers”) flows near Columbia Falls as it meanders south to Flathead Lake.
For special lodging, try the historic Belton Chalet (888-235-8665) in West Glacier, Montana. Belton Chalet features a neat taproom, with excellent food. Belton Chalet’s Grill Dining Room offers many choice entrees. It’s worth driving miles to savor Grilled Salmon paired with Flathead cherry BBQ sauce, served by the friendly and professional staff at the Belton Chalet.
The Great Bear Inn (406) 250-4577 and Moss Mountain Inn (406) 381-8931 are good choices too.
Flathead Lake Area
Flathead Lake is a few miles south of Kalispell on U.S. Highway 93. Flathead Lake is about 30 miles long and 12 to 14 miles wide. The setting is spectacular, with the Mission Mountains flanking the lake along the east side.
About 25 fish species inhabit Flathead Lake. Fisherman enjoy catching cutthroat trout, lake trout, and lake whitefish. Flathead Lake is also a wonderful area for camping, hiking, boating and wildlife watching. Lucky for tourists, the Montana Department Fish, Wildlife & Parks maintains several units of Flathead Lake State Park near the lake.
Look for the cherry orchards along the east side of the lake. Growers harvest the cherries from the second week of July through the second week of August. When the cherry harvest is underway, stop at any of the numerous roadside stands along Montana Highway 35 south of Bigfork to buy some of Montana’s favorite treat. The Mission Mountain Winery makes extra good wines at its headquarters in Dayton on the west shore of Flathead Lake. The winery is open for tasting from May through October.
Dragon boats cruising on a wilderness lake is not what you’d expect to see in Montana. Be surprised. The Annual Montana Dragon Boat Festival is the latest outdoor entertainment in the Kalispell area. Hong Kong inspired dragon boats, with twenty paddlers for power, race across Flathead Lake. As many as 45 teams compete. Fun for all. In 2019, this event is at Wayfarers State Park south of Bigfork and runs September 7-8.
Bigfork (pop 4,270) is a quaint, small village surrounded by wild and pristine wilderness. Blessed by nature, Bigfork may be the best small town in America. Bigfork is home to amazing culture, too. The Bigfork Center for the Performing Arts is a huge attraction, with many outstanding events ready for visitors to enjoy.
RVers and campers heading for Glacier National Park or Flathead Lake often stop for a night (or longer) at Outback Montana RV/Tent Campground, located about 4 miles south of Bigfork and southeast of Kalispell. Outback Montana RV/Tent Campground is only 1 mile from Flathead Lake. Nearby is Eagle Bend Golf Course. This is an ideal spot for an outdoor barbecue or just a walk in the wild. Golfing is popular in other areas too.
Swan River Inn is a bit pricey, but extra nice. Swan River Inn has dining and a great location in downtown Bigfork near all the action (406)-837-2328. Mountain Lake Lodge, about five miles south of Bigfork, is also very nice but again expensive (406)-837-3800. Laughing Horse Lodge (open May – October), located a few miles south of Bigfork in the village of Swan Lake, offers cabins in a rural setting. (406) 886-2080.
Montana Highway 83 runs southeast of Bigfork and passes through wilderness country. The highway follows the Seeley-Swan Valley and is bordered by the Swan Mountains on the east and Mission Mountains on the west. Dense forests crowd Highway 83, so mountain and lake scenery is a little hard to see. The towns of Swan Lake, Condon, and Seeley Lake provide essential services for travelers.
Wild rivers, beautiful lakes, and magnificent alpine forests make Montana’s wilderness an ideal destination for camping, hiking, wildlife viewing, nature photography, and other outdoor activities.
Buy a book about Montana’s Bob Marshall, Scapegoat, and Great Bear Wilderness Areas from Barnes & Noble. Outfitters and guides in Seeley Lake and other towns know the region well and are ready to help visitors have an enjoyable trip. Gary Noland’s Seeley Swan Pathfinder describes many recreational opportunities offered by businesses in the Seeley-Swan Valley.
Buffalo still roam Montana’s prairies at the National Bison Range, a few miles south of Polson (pop. 4,777), near the village of Moiese. Hundreds of buffalo and numerous elk, mule deer, bighorn sheep, and mountain goats live on a 19,000 acre refuge, managed by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service. The refuge is a delight for birders, too, with some 205 bird species.
In Pablo, a few miles south of Polson on U.S. Highway 93, visitors experience Native American culture at the People’s Center. People’s Center is a venture of the Salish, Kootenai, and Pend d’Oreille Indian Nations. It has a wonderful collection of artifacts, photographs, stone tools, and dance outfits. A gift shop sells works of local Native American artists. The Tribes also offer lodging, plus a superb restaurant and lounge at KwaTaqNuk Resort (303 U.S. Highway 93 East, Polson). 800-882-6363.
St. Ignatius Mission in St. Ignatius, Montana, on the Flathead Indian Reservation, is a special place in the Flathead Valley. Built in the early 1890’s, the church has fabulous original paintings on the walls and ceiling by Brother Joseph Carignano. This Catholic Church is located south of Pablo on U.S. 93 or about 42 miles north of Missoula.
Hot Springs (pop. 557), located about 30 miles southwest of Flathead Lake, is famous hot mineral springs. Hot mineral water is thought to have therapeutic value for many of life’s common ailments. Hot Springs boasts a new outdoor hot mineral pool at the Symes Hotel (406) 741-2361. Other fine indoor bathing facilities are offered at Wild Horse Hot Springs and Hot Springs Spa.
Libby (pop. 2,691) is away from the crowds that flock to Glacier National Park and the Flathead Lake area. Still Libby is a great place to visit and offers many splendid attractions which appeal to many visitors. One such attraction is the famous Swinging Bridge built over the Kootenai River in 2019 by the U.S. Forest Service. The Swinging Bridge is a foot-path in the sky spanning a distance of 220 feet across the Kootenai River at a height of about 100 feet above the river below. Crossing the bridge on foot is an absolute thrill for those who like to experience a genuine adventure.
Northwest Montana is a wild huckleberry paradise. Locals eagerly anticipate mid-July when huckleberries begin to ripen on national forest lands. Folks head for the mountains, buckets in hand, hoping to find a patch of huckleberries to pick.
More adventurous tourists may also want to experience huckleberry picking. Huckleberries are a delicious fruit and after harvest are used in a variety of tasty delights such as jams, pies, and flavored ice cream. Low volume pickers (fruit for personal consumption) generally don’t need a permit from national forest officials.
Black bears and grizzly bears love huckleberries too. Safety from bears is a concern of pickers. Advice: if you go, always be on lookout for bears and carry bear spray for protection.
Many tourists visit northwest Montana to see the grandeur of mountains and enjoy outdoor activities in a pristine environment. Others want to experience wild nature. Every region of Montana has much to offer, but The Wilderness may top all.
When driving a good map is handy even if you think you know the way. It’s also helpful for planning alternate routes which may turn out to be more scenic and less traveled than roads drivers usually take. Plan your trip using the official Montana state highway map.
Northwest Montana, a.k.a.,
Neue Königreich Bayern
Copyright © 2019 John Sandy